At the end of 2019, when I decided to give knit wear sewing a real go, I started thinking about what I wear the most and picking colors and prints that would work well with the rest of my wardrobe.
I’ve always been a layers girl. So I scoured the Pinterest boards for an indie cardigan pattern to try. I wanted functional pockets as well as design options and the indie pattern makers sure answered that call!
I had it narrowed down to the Blackwood Cardigan by Helen’s Closet Patterns, the Vermont Cardigan by New Horizons Designs and the Dionne Duster by Sew Altered Designs.
I went with the Dionne Duster because of the pockets. Not with the pockets as they are designed in the pattern; I wasn’t digging the top-stitched effect of the pocket options on most designs I saw. When looking at the design sketches I could see a way to hack the Dionne to set the pockets inside the middle panel instead of top-stitching.
My first one was a size 12, view A, long cardi with the bishop sleeves. I used an inexpensive black interlock kit (poly blend) and poly blend and a black ribbed knit for the cuffs, both from JoAnn Store.
My pattern hack worked! I tried to take pictures of the hack process but the black made it tough to photograph well. The size 12 was a bit oversized on me and I think that maybe bishop sleeve style isn’t for me, but the cardigan is super cozy feels well made! I stitched it, primarily, with my Brother 1034DX serger, then used my sewing machine to run a straight stitch on the hem and some top stitching.
I love the length of this cardigan. I don’t love wearing leggings, cause I don’t have a lot of tops that are long enough to cover my butt. A cardigan this length solves that problem!
Sizing Cut: 12
Pattern View: View A
Alterations: Set in pocket (as described above)
My Measurements: 39½” bust, 31″ waist, 39½” hip*
* At time of photo – picked size of slightly different numbers. Pandemic resulted in weight loss for me.
A Second Dionne, for Mom!
Ok…so she almost didn’t get this gift. It’s GORGEOUS and I am SOOOOO crazy pleased with how it came out! Cue dancing! I believe at this point in my photo sesh Lizzo was playing.
No, seriously. Hit the play button above, then look at my silly dancing photo.
When I saw Mom in January for her birthday I measured her and had her try my cardi on. We decided on a size 10 for her, with the view A body but view B’s straight sleeve. The sleeves on mine were about an inch too long on her when we placed the shoulder correctly. When I compared the length of the 10 and 12 the 10 was ~1/2″ shorter, so I trimmed an extra 1/2″ off the sleeve so the cuffs should sit nicely on her wrists.
This time I also reinforced both the shoulder seam and the seam across the back from shoulder to shoulder with 3/8″ clear elastic. That plus topstitching after sewing on the scarf seems to help this one hold it’s shape a bit better.
I may make myself a 10 next time if I’m using a fabric this weight but I won’t loose the length on the sleeve, I would want to loose 1/2″ if I were making a size 12 sleeve for myself (eg. the black one above)
I asked Mom to pick her color from what was in stock at Nature’s Fabric. They’re a small family owned company out of Pennsylvania. I came across them recently while looking for supplier options for quality organic, hemp and bamboo fabric. I ordered swatches and liked what I saw and felt when I got them – let me tell you that this bamboo stretch french terry is super luxurious. It’s got such a soft hand, it drapes beautifully and this color is beautifully warm like oatmeal with a heathered texture to it.
Sizing Cut: 10
Pattern View: View A bodice with view B sleeves
Alterations: Set in pocket (as described above)
My Measurements (in photo): 39½” bust, 31″ waist, 39½” hip*
I’m pretty sure it’s going to be a summer staple for Mom!
In case you’re thinking, “Since you did the pocket hack a second time, did you take photos to share?!?”
I’m sorry, but the answer is no. I was too excited while making it. But here’s a closer shot of both the pocket and the cute little hang tag I added ♥
I suspect there’s a 3rd Dionne Duster cardigan in my future, and hopefully that one will get photographed properly 😉
** PS. This blog also featured an Ogden Cami I also made in December!