Pre-washed, yup, your fabric should be at this point. More details about that in last week’s post.
If you take it from the dryer promptly or line dry, you can minimize wrinkles, otherwise, press out any wrinkles and use starch if needed to
If your fabric is 51-58″ from selvage to selvage your should mimic the layout and cutting diagram on page 4. If you fabric is more narrow you may need to adjust, you should always maintain direction and pay attention to which direction on a print you are treating as the top.
Marking darts and notches
I cheat and cut them on one end and the fold it to use chalk to mark things. Because of how I mark, I fold my fabric wrong side out when I cut on the fold, so that my chalk or disappearing market will be on the inside.
How To Cut
You can cut with your fabric right sides out,
My preferred method, is to use pattern weights, a rotary cutter and a large rotary cutting mat. I work on a hardwood floor, crawling around, cause then I don’t have to fight gravity. I use the rotary utter to carefully cut the fabric right at the edge of the paper line.
Should I stay-stitch the arm and neck holes?
If your fabric is slinky or stretchy or cut on the bias (which a neck and arm hole is) you may need to do a basting stitch called stay stitching. I would worry about that on future projects. Just when you move your fabric around, use both hands, be careful and don’t drape it and let it pull.
If you want to use a different piece on the back, or back yoke or combination you can, just make sure you stick with the correct patten layout and grain line direction. A contrasting yoke is a great way to use scraps and that little extra is often the opener for the random “I love your top!”
Now, repeat after me, your new favorite response, “Thanks, I made it!”
Next up: Sewing the Real Thing Part 1